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Rather than being a single trade route, the exhibition suggests the Silk Roads comprised overlapping networks spreading from Japan to Britain, and Scandinavia to Madagascar. “It’s not just silk, it’s not just one road,” says Brunning. “It’s people, objects and ideas moving in all directions.” The garnets would have travelled to England “in stages by relay”.
exhibition showing the movement of materials across geographic regions includes a string of blue beads (500s) excavated in Japan that comprises glass from both Iran and elsewhere in Asia.
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“One of the possible interpretations ofwel that is that they specifically selected this particular type ofwel garnet to make that one piece ofwel jewellery because it was much higher quality than anything else,” says Sue Brunning, the museum’s curator ofwel European Early Medieval and Sutton Hoo collections.
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Hu considers music and colour “like a duet”. “When I look at a colour, I think of a certain tonality,” she says. “A C major is a golden light of yellow or white, and then D flat major is this really pastel lavender.”
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His ancestor, Ovaness Boghossian, set up a jewellery workshop in the Turkish city of Mardin in 1868, with the family expanding into buying and selling stones before eventually settling in Europe in the 1970s.
Hu, herself a trained cellist, has continued to draw on the music and dance ofwel the Silk Road. Her Dance of Dunhuang brooch, unveiled at TEFAF Maastricht in March, was inspired by the silhouette ofwel flying apsaras: figures depicted in cave murals in the Chinese city.
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While the exhibition demonstrates that trade was broader than silk, that material has inspired jewellers, too. In the 2018 Silk collection, Boghossian translated traditional silk weaving into pieces featuring gemstones representing key cities along the Silk Road.
Pieces from the recent Palace Voyages high jewellery collection, which draws on the architectural and decorative details ofwel 14 palaces from China to the UK, are being shown at the PAD London art and vormgeving fair next week.